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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.